Eversolo has been on a roll. The Chinese manufacturer spent years building credibility with value-oriented streamers and DACs before quietly becoming a name that serious audiophiles discuss in the same breath as more established Western brands. The DAC-Z10 is their most ambitious statement yet. It’s a $1,980 flagship that combines a DAC, balanced preamplifier, and headphone amplifier into a single chassis. The question worth asking isn’t whether it has impressive specs on paper (it absolutely does) but whether the engineering behind those specs translates into something you actually want to listen to.

Build and Design

The DAC-Z10 arrives in a full-width chassis dressed in machined aluminum that feels genuinely premium, not the “premium-for-the-price” qualifier you often hear at this tier, but premium without asterisks. The build is solid, with tight tolerances and no panel flex. Dominating the front panel is an 8.8-inch IPS touchscreen that is both responsive and sharp. It displays your choice of vintage-style or modern VU meters and dynamic spectrum analyzers, and it’s protected by electromagnetic shielding to prevent interference from the display affecting the analog circuitry behind it. A large rotary encoder handles volume, with a customizable LED ring around it, which is a small cosmetic flourish, but one that gives the unit a sense of character in a dimly lit listening room. A USB-C rechargeable remote is included, a thoughtful touch that puts many pricier competitors to shame.

Architecture and Technology

Where the DAC-Z10 earns serious attention is inside the box. Eversolo built the unit around what they call Fully Isolated Architecture (FIA), which physically and electrically separates the digital and analog domains. More notably, each stereo channel gets its own dedicated AK4191 + AK4499EX chipset, a genuine dual-mono implementation that eliminates channel crosstalk entirely, rather than the more common approach of running both channels through a single chip pair. Three independent linear power supplies (one per channel, one for system circuitry) further isolate noise sources from the signal path.

The volume control uses a precision R2R resistor ladder network rather than the digital attenuation that most DACs employ. This matters because digital volume control works by removing bits at lower levels, which in turn degrades resolution as you turn down the volume. The R2R approach preserves the full signal at every level. The preamplifier section is fully balanced, supports both XLR and RCA analog inputs with up to +10dB of gain, and is designed to drive power amplifiers or active speakers directly, making a separate preamp genuinely optional rather than just theoretically so.

The clock system is equally thorough. An OCXO (Oven Controlled Crystal Oscillator) provides the timing reference, temperature-stabilized to prevent frequency drift. PLL technology handles secondary jitter suppression, and an onboard FPGA shapes the I2S data and refines the clock before it ever reaches the DAC chips. For those running outboard master clocks, the DAC-Z10 accepts 10MHz and 25MHz external references via BNC connectors with both 50Ω and 75Ω impedance options. Eversolo claims THD+N of 0.00008% and dynamic range of 130dB, numbers that, if they hold up under measurement, are genuinely impressive at this price.

Connectivity

Input options are unusually comprehensive. On the digital side: USB-B (up to PCM 768kHz/32-bit and native DSD512), I2S via HDMI (8 switchable mode configurations), dual coaxial, dual optical, AES/EBU, HDMI ARC/eARC, and Bluetooth 5.0 via a Qualcomm QCC5125 module supporting SBC and AAC. Analog inputs cover both balanced XLR and single-ended RCA.

The output side mirrors this with balanced XLR and unbalanced RCA analog outputs, plus the 6.35mm (1/4″) headphone output on the front panel. Trigger in/out connections allow integration into automated systems. The Eversolo Control app handles remote management of all settings from a smartphone.

Sound

In practice, the DAC-Z10 leans toward the detailed and analytical end of the tonal spectrum rather than the warm and euphonic. Other reviewers who compared it directly to competing units in similar price brackets found its presentation sharper and more resolved in the treble, with precise imaging and excellent channel separation, which is a likely byproduct of the genuine dual-mono topology. (stevehuffphoto.com) Midrange punch is present but not forwardly weighted. Those accustomed to R2R NOS DACs or more romantically voiced converters may find it reveals more than it flatters.

That said, “analytical” does not mean clinical to the point of fatigue. The DAC-Z10’s soundstage is wide and precisely organized, low-level detail retrieval is excellent, and the noise floor is genuinely black. The R2R volume control performs exactly as intended. There is no perceivable resolution loss at moderate listening levels, which is where most home listening actually happens.

The headphone amplifier is a legitimate feature rather than an afterthought. It auto-detects headphone impedance to adjust gain appropriately, covers three gain settings (low, medium, high), and delivers up to 1W into 16-32 ohm loads, enough to control demanding planar-magnetic headphones without strain. The notable omission is a balanced headphone output: there is no 4.4mm Pentaconn or 4-pin XLR, which may matter to listeners invested in balanced headphone cables.

Who Is It For?

The DAC-Z10 makes the most sense for someone building or upgrading a system where a separate preamp would otherwise be required. Used as a DAC/preamp feeding a power amplifier directly, it eliminates one component, one set of interconnects, and one power supply from the chain while adding a headphone amplifier. That combination of functions at $1,980 is genuinely competitive against offerings from well-known separates manufacturers.

It rewards clean upstream sources. A well-implemented streamer or transport will let the unit’s detail retrieval work in your favor. In systems that are already bright or forward-sounding, the DAC-Z10’s analytical character could tip the balance. In systems that are warmer or rolled-off, it will add welcome resolution and air.

Verdict

The Eversolo DAC-Z10 is a serious piece of equipment. The dual-mono AKM implementation, genuine R2R volume control, triple independent power supplies, and robust preamplifier section represent engineering choices that are hard to argue with at this price. Its sound is precise and revealing rather than colored or forgiving, and its feature set and connectivity are as thorough as anything in this price range. If you want a transparent, high-resolution hub for a modern stereo system, this is among the strongest options available under $2,000.

Apple has enabled a new feature that allows you to use your Airpods Pro 2, or later models, as hearing aids.

They’ve made some of the functions unnecessarily confusing. Below I’ve outlined steps for some various tasks that you may be struggling with.

Also, here are some Apple links that may help but I find that Apple instructions can be a little confusing at times.

If you don’t have Airpods Pro 2, they are cheaper from Amazon than from Apple direct. You can get them (currently for $189) here.

Links To Below Sections

• Update your Airpod firmware
• Take a hearing test
• Switch between test results
• Delete a test result
• Thoughts & feedback for Apple
• Alternatives to Airpods for hearing aids

Update Your AirPods Pro Firmware

You need to make sure your Airpods have the latest firmware to enable this feature.

1. Put your Airpods inside the case and close the lid.
2. Keep the lid closed for about 30 seconds, then take out the Airpods and insert them into your ears. Keep them in your ears for about 20 seconds.
3. Put the Airpods back in the case and close the lid.
4. Charge the case via cable or a MagSafe charger.
5. Keep your iPhone near the case for about 10-15 minutes.
6. After 10-15 minutes, open the Airpods case lid and on your iPhone, go to Settings > Bluetooth and tap the “i” to the right of your Airpods’ name. The Airpods should have been updated to the most recent version.

Take A Hearing Test With Your iPhone Or iPad

Before you begin, make sure you’re in a quiet room. One good place is in a bedroom closet. The clothes will provide some sound insulation and it’s probably the quietest place in the house. The test takes about 5 minutes.

Wear your AirPods Pro 2, and make sure they’re connected to your device.

Go to Settings on your iPhone or iPad, tap the name of your AirPods near the top of the screen, tap Take a Hearing Test, then follow the onscreen instructions.

Switch Between Hearing Test Results

If you have more than one test result saved in your phone, you can switch to a different one like this. It’s unnecessarily lengthy but pretty easy. Apple just makes you step through a bunch of pages that explains the feature as if you’re enabling it for the first time.

1. On you iPhone, open Settings
2. Toward the top, tap on your headphone name
3. Tap on Hearing Assistance
4. Tap on Update Hearing Test Results
5. You’ll see, “Chose a Hearing Test Result”. You’ll see your test results listed. Just tap on the test result that you’d like to apply.
6. Tap on Next
7. Tap on Set Up Hearing Aid
8. Tap on Get Started
9. Tap on Next
10. Tap Turn On Hearing Aid
11. Tap on Done

Delete An Audiogram / Test Result

1. Open Health App
2. tap Browse
3. tap Hearing
4. tap Hearing Test Results
5. Scroll to the bottom and tap Show All Data
6. tap Edit
7. Tap the delete icon for the Audiogram you want to delete.

Thoughts – Feedback For Apple

I would like a way to duplicate an existing hearing audiogram and then would like to easily make adjustments to it. The process to manually enter a new audiogram is quite time consuming, and I assume the logic is, “your hearing loss is your hearing loss”, and it’s not really subjective. I know that it’s not supposed to work like an stereo graphic equalizer but if I test for one tone at 38 db, I may want to tune it down a tad to 35, as an example.

Some higher tones can create some loud popping, for certain hearing abilities, and I may prefer to roll those off just a touch. There is a Tone slider to make the Airpods sound darker or brighter but I don’t know how this is changing the audiogram or equalization. More visuals explaining what this is doing would be nice too.

Alternatives to Airpods

Now that over-the-counter hearing aids are allowed, there are more coming out in the market. Dedicated hearing aids will work better than Airpods because they have dedicated circuitry, and have a much longer battery life.

Sony now makes hearing aids

• CRE-E10
• CRE-C10
• CRE-C20

Jabra also makes hearing aids

• 50R OTC
• 300 OTC
• 500 OTC

Amazon is now having a sale on the Ortofon Blue moving magnet cartridge for $189, which is a great deal from it’s usual $239.

A lot of turntables come with the Ortofon Red and the Blue is a recommended step up and this is a great price!

https://amzn.to/3Frfx6j

The 2M Blue features an improved engine, which provides an increased output of 5.5 mV and an optimized sound reproduction and a high level of sonic accuracy. 

The stylus features a Nude Elliptical diamond and split pole pins with a copper wire. The cartridge body is manufactured from Hopelex which ensures high rigidity while eliminating unwanted resonances. 

The 2M Blue adds more dynamics and resolution, more openness and reproduces more details compared to the 2M Red.

Benefits of vinyl records and why someone would want to collect vinyl records.

Vinyl records, also known as phonograph records or simply records, are a type of analog sound storage medium consisting of a flat disc with an inscribed, modulated spiral groove. (Please don’t call them “vinyls”.)

Although they were once a popular format for music playback, they fell out of favor in the 1980s and 1990s with the advent of cassette tapes and CDs. (Both of which are also making a bit of a comeback.)

Read: What It Was Like To Collect Music In The 90s

However, in recent years, there has been a resurgence of interest in vinyl records as a medium for music playback, and many people have started collecting for various reasons.

One of the main benefits of vinyl records is their sound quality. Many audiophiles and music enthusiasts argue that the sound quality of vinyl records is superior to that of digital formats such as CDs and MP3s. This is because vinyl records capture the full frequency range of sound, including the subtle nuances and details that are lost in digital formats due to the process of digitization and compression. In addition, vinyl records have a warm, analog sound that is often described as more natural and organic than the colder, digital sound of CDs and MP3s.

Another benefit of vinyl records is their physicality. Unlike digital music, which is stored electronically and played back through a device, vinyl records are tangible objects that you can hold in your hands and interact with. They often come with artwork and liner notes that provide additional context and information about the music and the artists. Many people enjoy the tactile experience of selecting a record, placing it on the turntable, and carefully lowering the needle onto the spinning disc. There is a sense of ritual and ceremony associated with playing a vinyl record that is lacking in digital formats.

Vinyl records also have a certain nostalgia factor that appeals to many collectors. For those who grew up listening to records, owning and playing them can be a way to reconnect with their past and relive memories. In addition, vinyl records have a certain retro coolness that has been embraced by younger generations, who appreciate the vintage aesthetic and the sense of history and authenticity that comes with collecting and playing records.

Vinyl records can also be a more immersive listening experience than digital formats. Because they require more active engagement and attention from the listener, they can be more conducive to focused listening and deeper engagement with the music. This can be especially true when listening to longer works, such as concept albums, which can be more rewarding when heard in their entirety without the distractions of digital media.

In addition to their sound quality, physicality, nostalgia, and immersive listening experience, vinyl records can also be a more collectible and potentially valuable format than other types of music media. Many records are pressed in limited quantities and can become rare and sought after by collectors, leading to higher prices on the resale market. Some records, especially those by popular or influential artists, can even become valuable investments. Collecting vinyl records can therefore be a hobby that combines an appreciation for music with the potential for financial gain. (You shouldn’t get into records thinking it’s an “investment”. This takes an extensive knowledge of music, the vinyl record market, and some luck. You’re better off investing in a more traditional way.)

Note: Artists sometimes only release certain songs on a vinyl record, or a CD, or a cassette. If you’re a fan of that artist or song and want to own a copy of it, sometimes buying that particular release is your only choice. Read the previous linked article on collecting music in the 90s for more info on this.

There are, of course, some drawbacks to collecting vinyl records. They can be more fragile and prone to damage than other types of music media, and they require more maintenance and upkeep, such as cleaning and handling with care to prevent scratches and wear. (Read more on this below) In addition, they can be more expensive to purchase than CDs or digital downloads, and the cost of equipment such as turntables and speakers can also be a consideration. However, for many collectors, the benefits of vinyl records outweigh these drawbacks, and the joy and fulfillment they get from collecting and listening to records makes it worth the extra effort and cost.

In conclusion, vinyl records offer a number of benefits that make them an attractive format for music collectors. Their sound quality, physicality, nostalgia, immersive listening experience, and potential collectability all contribute to their appeal. In addition, many people enjoy the ritual and ceremony of playing a record, and the sense of connection with the music and the artists that comes with it. While there are certainly some drawbacks to collecting vinyl records, such as the potential for damage and the higher cost compared to other formats, for many collectors, the benefits far outweigh these challenges. Whether it’s for the superior sound quality, the tactile experience, the nostalgia, or the potential for financial gain, there are many good reasons to collect vinyl records and enjoy them as a medium for music playback. So, vinyl records can be a great addition to any music lover’s collection.

What to look for in a good quality turntable

A turntable, also known as a record player, is a device that plays vinyl records. It consists of a platter that rotates the record, a tonearm that holds the phono cartridge and needle, and a phono cartridge that converts the mechanical vibrations of the needle in the record grooves into an electrical signal.

Read: Recommended Beginner Turntables

When shopping for a turntable, there are several factors to consider in order to ensure that you get a good quality one.

1. Drive system: There are three main types of drive systems for turntables – belt drive, direct drive, and idler drive.

Belt drive turntables use a belt to connect the motor to the platter, which helps to isolate the motor from the platter and reduce vibrations. This results in a more stable and smoother rotation of the platter, which can result in better sound quality. However, belt drive turntables are more prone to wear and tear and may require more maintenance.

Direct drive turntables have the motor directly connected to the platter, which allows for faster start-up and braking times. They are also more durable and require less maintenance. However, the direct connection between the motor and platter can result in more vibrations, which can affect the sound quality.

Idler drive turntables are similar to direct drive turntables, but they use a rubber wheel to transfer the motor’s torque to the platter. They offer a combination of the benefits of both belt drive and direct drive turntables, but they can be more expensive and harder to find. Idler drive turntables were largely displaced by belt drive turntables.

For a beginner turntable, you don’t need to worry that much about this. Most tables you’ll be interested in will be belt drive tables which are perfectly adequate.

2. Speed: Turntables typically have three speed settings – 33 ^1/3 rpm, 45 rpm, and 78 rpm. It’s important to check if a turntable can play the speeds of the records you own or plan to buy. (Nearly all modern/contemporary records are 33 ^1/3 or 45) Some turntables also offer variable speed control, which allows you to fine-tune the speed for better accuracy and sound quality.
3. Platter and bearing: The platter is the flat surface on which the record is placed. It should be made of a heavy, non-resonant material, such as metal or acrylic, to ensure a stable and consistent rotation. The bearing, which is the mechanism that supports the platter, should be smooth and precise to minimize vibrations and noise.
4. Tonearm and cartridge: The tonearm is the long, thin arm that holds the phono cartridge and needle, and it plays a crucial role in the sound quality of a turntable. It should be well-balanced and have low friction to allow the cartridge to trace the record grooves accurately.

The phono cartridge is the device that converts the mechanical vibrations of the needle in the record grooves into an electrical signal. It should be of good quality and properly aligned with the tonearm and the record grooves to ensure accurate and detailed sound reproduction. Some turntables come with a built-in cartridge, while others allow you to install a separate cartridge of your choice.

5. Suspension: A turntable’s suspension system helps to isolate it from external vibrations, such as footsteps or loud music, which can affect the sound quality. A good suspension system should effectively absorb and dampen vibrations without affecting the tonearm’s movement.
6. Build quality: A turntable should be well-built and sturdy, with tight tolerances and precise adjustments. It should also have a good fit and finish, with no visible gaps or seams.
7. Features: Some turntables come with additional features, such as a built-in phono preamp, digital outputs, USB connectivity, and Bluetooth connectivity. A built-in phono preamp allows you to connect the turntable directly to an amplifier or receiver that doesn’t have a phono input. (Read: Recommended Preamps) Digital outputs, such as coaxial or optical, allow you to connect the turntable to a digital device, such as a computer or a digital-to-analog converter, to digitize your records. USB connectivity allows you to connect the turntable to a computer to record and edit your vinyl tracks. Bluetooth connectivity allows you to wirelessly stream your vinyl records to a Bluetooth-enabled speaker or headphones. (Bluetooth is generally viewed as a modern convenience but is frowned upon by many vinyl enthusiasts.)
8. Price: Turntables range in price from under $100 (usually only recommended for children) up to several thousand dollars. In general, you get what you pay for when it comes to turntables. Cheap turntables may have lower quality components and may not offer the same level of sound quality and durability as more expensive models. However, there are also some good quality turntables available at more affordable price points. It’s important to set a budget and consider the features and performance that are most important to you.

In conclusion, a good quality turntable should offer a stable and consistent rotation of the platter, accurate and detailed sound reproduction, effective isolation from external vibrations, and a well-built and sturdy design. It should also have the features and performance that meet your needs and fit your budget.

How to clean and care for vinyl records

Cleaning and caring for vinyl records is an important task for any music enthusiast or collector. Not only do dirty and poorly cared for records sound worse, but they can also become damaged over time.

New records can come with a bit of debris, such as little paper bits or dust, and used records, depending on where you find or buy them, can be especially dirty.

We will go over the steps you can take to properly clean and care for your vinyl records to ensure that they last for years to come and continue to sound great.

Step 1: Dust and Debris

The first step in cleaning and caring for your vinyl records is to remove any dust and debris that may have accumulated on the surface of the record. A soft, lint-free cloth is the best tool for this task. Gently wipe the surface of the record in a circular motion, starting from the center and working your way outwards. Be sure to get the edges of the record as well. You don’t need to press hard, and be conscious of your finger nails. Once a record is scratched, you can’t unscratch it.

Step 2: Deep Cleaning

If your record is particularly dirty or has visible scratches, you may need to do a deeper cleaning. There are a few different methods you can use to deep clean your records.

One option is to use a commercial record cleaning solution and a record cleaning device, like a Spin Clean. These use a combination of a cleaning solution and a brush to gently remove dirt and grime from the surface of the record. You can also use a cleaning solution and a soft, lint-free cloth to manually clean the record. Just be sure to follow the instructions on the cleaning solution and use it sparingly to avoid damaging the record.

You can also use a device that uses vacuum to suck up the cleaning solution and dirt. These work very well and are relatively affordable. Especially if you already have a small shop vacuum. There are a number of options but we’re fond of this 3d printed device called Squeaky Clean. You just attach a small shop vac to it. It works better than a Spin Clean but it more expensive.

A more advanced option is to use an ultrasonic cleaner. There are many options here as well and some new ones have come out that are reasonably priced. A newer addition is the HumminGuru, pictured left. There are also some more generic ultrasonic cleaners available.

These have their pros and cons as well.

A cheap, popular method is to use a carbon fiber brush to gently remove dust and debris from the grooves of the record. You can also use a velvet brush with a record cleaning liquid. For an older record or particular dirty record, you’ll need to use one of the other options though.

Step 3: Handling and Storage

Proper handling and storage of your vinyl records is crucial to their long-term care. Here are a few tips to follow:

• Always handle your records by the edges or the label, and avoid touching the grooves of the record. The oils from your skin can easily transfer to the record, leading to build-up and potentially causing damage.
• Store your records vertically in a sturdy, protective sleeves. This will help prevent them from getting scratched or damaged. You can also use a protective outer sleeve for added protection.
  
  This is our recommended practice. Just store the record in a protective rice-paper sleeve outside of the cover, and put both in a protective plastic outer sleeve. (They are available in combo packs with both.) Keep the inner sleeve that the record comes with inside of the cover. This way you don’t have to mess with taking the record out of the cover every time you want to play it.

• Keep your records away from direct sunlight and heat sources, as extreme temperatures can cause warping.
• Avoid stacking your records on top of each other, as the weight can cause them to become damaged.
• Don’t store them compacted too tightly. You should be able to easily slide them in and out of the shelf.

Step 4: Stylus and Turntable Maintenance

In addition to cleaning and caring for your records, it is also important to regularly maintain your turntable and stylus. A dirty or worn stylus can cause damage to your records and result in poor sound quality. Here are a few tips for maintaining your stylus and turntable:

• Regularly clean the stylus with a stylus brush or a special stylus cleaning solution. This will remove any dirt or debris that may have accumulated on the stylus, and help extend its life.
• Check the alignment of your stylus to ensure that it is tracking properly. An improperly aligned stylus can cause wear and damage to your records.
• Clean the turntable regularly to remove any dust or debris that may have accumulated. This will help ensure that the turntable is functioning properly and that your records are spinning smoothly.
• If you notice any issues with your turntable or stylus, it is a good idea to have them professionally serviced. This will help ensure that they to function properly and that your records are being played back correctly.

In conclusion, cleaning and caring for your vinyl records is an important task that requires time and attention. This all may be overwhelming to someone looking to get started but it’s all much easier than it seems.

By following the steps outlined above, you can help ensure that your records stay in good condition and continue to sound great for years to come. Regular dusting and cleaning, proper handling and storage, and maintaining your turntable and stylus are all key to keeping your vinyl collection in top shape. With a little bit of care and attention, you can enjoy your vinyl records for many years to come.

Start Off On The Right Foot With These 10 Entry-Level Turntables

Mid-Century Styled Vintage Turntables For The Design Minded Music Fan

A turntable preamp, also known as a phono preamp or phono stage, is a device that amplifies the inherently weak electrical signal produced by a turntable’s cartridge to a level that is compatible with a standard audio amplifier or receiver. Turntables produce a very low-level signal, known as a phono signal, which is not strong enough to be directly amplified by most audio amplifiers.

For example, if you plugged a turntable, without a built-in pre-amp, into a receiver’s CD input, it would be too quiet. You could turn the volume way up but it’s still going to be too quiet and you’d lose much of the detail of the signal.

There are several reasons why someone might use a turntable preamp. First and foremost, many newer receivers do not have a built-in phono stage, so a turntable preamp is necessary to amplify the phono signal produced by the turntable. Additionally, the phono stage of a turntable preamp can help to correct for any imbalances in the turntable’s cartridge, resulting in a more balanced and accurate sound.

There are many turntable preamps available on the market at different price points. The main differences are generally related to their build quality, performance, and features.

Entry-level preamps tend to be more basic and won’t offer as much flexibility or sound quality as higher-end models. Mid-range and high-end preamps, on the other hand, tend to offer more features and higher performance, but also obviously come with a higher price tag.

Entry-Level Recommendations

Pro-Ject Phono Box E

Pro-Ject Phono Box E Phono Preamp: This compact and affordable preamp is a great choice for those on a budget. It offers good performance for the price and is easy to set up and use.

• Amplification and RIAA equalisation for MM cartridges 
• SMD circuitry 
• Special low noise components 
• Internal metal shielding 
• Gold plated RCA connection sockets

→­ link

Schilt Mani

This budget-friendly preamp offers excellent sound quality and a range of features, including adjustable loading for both moving magnet (MM) and moving coil (MC) cartridges. It also has a built-in headphone amplifier, making it a great choice for those who like to listen to vinyl through headphones.

• Super low noise and high RIAA accuracy. 
• Gain: Choose 35, 45, 50, or 60dB of gain, for virtually any cartridge from Decca to low-output MC and MI models. 
• Loading: Choose 47KΩ, 200Ω, 47Ω, or 38Ω, and 47pF, 100pF, 150pF, or 200pF for virtually any MM, MC, or MI cartridge. 
• Filter: Choose 6dB/octave or 12dB/octave of purely passive low-frequency filtering (at 15 Hz), to help with warped records or other subsonic problems.

→­ link

Mid-Range Recommendations

Cambridge Audio Alva Duo

This mid-range preamp offers excellent sound quality and a range of features, including a built-in moving magnet (MM) and moving coil (MC) phono stage.

• The switch mode power supply and surface mount technology delivers short signal paths and a faster response with precision and lower background noise.
• Subsonic filter and balance control
• Headphone jack

→­ link

Music Hall Mini

Compact and affordable. Offers good performance and a range of features, including adjustable loading for MM and MC cartridges. It also has a built-in headphone amplifier and a variety of connectivity options, including both RCA and XLR outputs.

• Cartridge Load Capacitance – Fine-tune the pre-amp to match the characteristics of your chosen MM or MC cartridge. 
• Rumble Filter – Filters out disrupting frequencies that degrade the overall sound quality.
• Trim-Gain Control – Match the output with your stereo system.

→­ link

Rega Fono Mini A2D

This mid-range preamp offers excellent sound quality and a range of features, including a built-in analog-to-digital converter for easy digital recording. It also has a variety of connectivity options, including both RCA and XLR outputs.

• MM Phono Preamp with a USB output, connects directly to your computer 
• Converts analog signals to USB 
• Convert your records into high-resolution digital audio 
• User-friendly front and back panels 
• Compact size

→­ link

High End Recommendations

Rega Fono MM MK III

The new Fono MM phono stage has been designed to be effective, easy to use, and above all, to reproduce music.

• Fully discrete, cascaded, complementary amplifier input stage
• Detailed, spacious performance in a small package
• Fine handling of dynamics and timing

→­ link

Music Hall PA2.2

Phono preamplifier for moving magnet and moving coil cartridges, with USB output and headphone amp

• compatible with moving magnet and moving coil phono cartridges
• high performance 24-bit/96kHz Wolfson WM 8786 analog-to-digital converter
• quiet, energy-efficient external power supply

→­ link

Rega Brio

Great rhythm, dynamics, and agile.

• Redesigned circuit
• Integrated phono stage
• Headphone socket
• Mini remote control
• Custom designed case

→­ link

There are certainly many options in all price points, and you can spend as much as a car on a preamp, but we feel that these are respected and reputable offerings that are attainable to most people. Because prices are always changing, we’ve left prices off.

In summary, a turntable preamp is a necessary component for anyone looking to play vinyl records through a modern audio system. It amplifies the weak phono signal produced by the turntable’s cartridge to a level that can be directly amplified by an audio amplifier or receiver. There are many options available on the market at different price points, and the best choice will depend on the individual’s budget and audio needs.

Here are 10 vintage turntables that may be of interest to the music lover who likes Mid-Century design.

Thorens TD-124: This turntable, released in the 1950s, is known for its high-quality sound and reliable performance. It features a suspended chassis and a belt-driven motor, which helps to reduce vibrations and improve sound quality. If you want a new, updated version of this turntable then you can get one here.

Lenco L-75: This turntable, released in the 1970s, is known for its simplicity and reliability. It features a belt-driven motor and a heavy, die-cast aluminum platter, which helps to reduce vibrations and improve sound quality.

Dual 1219: This turntable, released in the 1960s, is known for its versatility and high-quality sound. It features a belt-driven motor and a heavy, die-cast aluminum platter, which helps to reduce vibrations and improve sound quality.

Rega Planar 2: This turntable, released in the 1970s, is known for its high-quality sound and simple design. It features a belt-driven motor and a lightweight, acrylic platter, which helps to reduce vibrations and improve sound quality.

Pioneer PL-12D: This turntable, released in the 1970s, is known for its reliability and versatility. It features a belt-driven motor and a heavy, die-cast aluminum platter, which helps to reduce vibrations and improve sound quality.

Marantz Model 6300: Features classic styling elements typical of Marantz from this era, including the Marantz font, mixed wood and metal finishing. While it’s beautiful deck, you’re paying for the aesthetics more than for features. You can find better turntables for less in today’s market.

Denon DP-1300M: The Denon DP-1300M, released in Japan in 2003, is a high quality direct-drive turntable. Amongst Japan-savvy audiophiles. Denon’s long legacy of phenomenal turntables, this DP-1300M is a fantastic modern product. It features a quartz phase lock servo motor with rotation feedback control via an innovative optical system.

Linn LP-12: These are classically designed and can cost nearly as much as a car.

Thorens TD-125: A classic belt-drive turntable and was the successor of the TD-124. The TD-160 is a similar looking table.

Yamaha YP-511: A direct drive turntable by Yamaha that was released in the mid 70s. The YP-701 / YP-700 are options as well.

There are new turntables that have the wood styling. Check out these by Audio-Technica, Fluance, House of Marley, and Teac. (If you like the look of the Thorens above then Crutchfield has a Teac model that is relatively close looking.)

This applies to Mazdas (works on my CX-30) but may be useful for other cars as well.

I wanted to load up a USB thumb drive with mp3s to have the option to play music just in case I was in an area with poor reception, or just got tired of flipping through stations or streaming music playlists.

I should note that I have a meticulously maintained playlist on both Spotify and my Mac called ‘1 song per artist‘ that currently has about 1800 songs. Yes, 1800 songs with only one song per artist. That’s 1800± different artists. It’s all alternative/indie too… from the late 60s (artists that influenced modern day alternative rock) through today. If interested, you can . () [shuffling is recommended]

This is how I was able to get the car entertainment system to read the thumb drive’s music folders AND playlists.

This is the USB drive I have. It’s incredibly small, very low profile, and affordable.

First , the USB thumb drive must be formatted as FAT32. On a Mac, use Disk Utility for this. Once that’s done, then proceed.

On my Mac, I created a new login just for the purpose of copying music to the thumb drive. This way I don’t have to mess with the music stored on my main account.

Call this new computer login whatever you want, then login to that account. (If you have a Windows computer then the logic is similar. The main hurdle for me was formatting the playlists.)

Open iTunes (now called Music.app) and open Preferences. Click on Files at the top of the Preferences window. Set this account’s music storage location to the USB drive. Make sure you set it to the root of the thumb drive. If your thumb drive is called ‘MUSIC’ then this preference will show, “/MUSIC”. Check the box for ‘keep Music Media folder organized’.

Copy any desired mp3s from your usual music folder to the root of the thumb drive. You may want to do this first, before you sign into this account. Then add them to iTunes/Music.app and let the app do any folder/file organization. Once iTunes/Music.app is finished adding the mp3s and reorganizing the folders/files, you should have a thumb drive with a folder for each artist at the top level, with album folders within them.

This is all you need if you want to manually choose artist/albums/songs from the car. If you want playlists, then continue.

Create any desired playlists and add the songs to them, within iTunes/Music.app.

When you are finished modifying the playlist, you want to export it.

Choose File > Library > Export Playlist, and save it to the root of the thumb drive as an M3U formatted playlist. (You can save it elsewhere first if you want because we have to modify it.)

Open the playlist m3u file with a text editor, like BBEdit or Notepad++.

When you open the playlist, it may look something like this. This is a small excerpt of a playlist, only showing 2 songs. There will be 2 lines per song.

#EXTM3U
#EXTINF:365,I Don't Want to Let You Down - Flyying Colours
/Volumes/MUSIC/Flyying Colours/ROYGBIV/01 I Don't Want to Let You Down.mp3
#EXTINF:153,Pink Showers - Deeper
/Volumes/MUSIC/Deeper/Deeper/01 Pink Showers.mp3

What we need to do is use the text editing application to find/replace a couple things so that every line with the file path looks like this.

#EXTM3U
#EXTINF:365,I Don't Want to Let You Down - Flyying Colours
\Flyying Colours\ROYGBIV\01 I Don't Want to Let You Down.mp3
#EXTINF:153,Pink Showers - Deeper
\Deeper\Deeper\01 Pink Showers.mp3

The 2 changes you have to make, in this situation, are:

1. remove: /Volumes/MUSIC
2. find all forward slashes ( / ) and replace with backward slashes ( \ )

Once you have done this, save the file(s) and put it on the USB drive. I created a folder called “playlists” and put them all in there. My car is able to find them.

That’s it! Depending on the music software, your computer, and where you store your music, your process may be a little different but the end result you want to achieve will be the same. Look at the second file format example above and try to achieve that.

In case you’re curious, you can see what the EXTINF line is for here, but I don’t modify that. The number following EXTINF is the length of the song, in seconds.

Related Information

If you want to see how I created my own wireless phone charger for the center console, see this post. It’s much cheaper and more user friendly than the poorly thought out version Mazda offers.

Front & Rear Dash Cam by FitCamX

I installed this myself and it took less than 2 hours, and it looks like it originally came with the car.

It’s available with several different camera hardware options.

I made this for my 2021 Mazda CX-30 but the general concept could apply to many cars, and newer models.

The official Mazda cell phone charger for the CX-30 is in a very inconvenient place. It’s both hard to get to for basic usage and incredibly wasteful of space. It’s in the bottom of the large center console.

Are we supposed to keep the console empty just for this function? Fumble through a console full of items to place the phone at the bottom of it?

I wanted a better way that was cheaper, easier to install, and more functional. This is what I came up with without much effort or expense.

These are the items I used:

• Console compartment organizer (link)
• Wireless charger (various options – 1, 2)

Optional Items:

• Rubber mat (link)
• USB 90-degree converter (link)
• USB cigarette charger adapter (link – get one without a light, see below)
• Wireless CarPlay (optional but recommended) (link)

I used the included thin rubber rectangular shaped insert pad as the template guide and cut out a regular piece of cardboard around it. This created the template for the size needed. I then put this in the larger console section to confirm the size and shape was desired.

I then laid the wireless charger on top of the cardboard to the desired position and drew a line around it. I also marked where the wire would fall so I could cut out a notch for the USB plug to go through.

After trimming the cardboard piece with the adjustments, to serve as the main template, I then laid it on top of a piece of foam board I already had. (The foam board thickness I used was either 5/16 or 3/8) The final foam board section sits under the cut rubber mat piece to elevate it so that it would sit about even with the height of the charger. You can find this foam board at a local art store or online.

I used a razor blade to cut the foam board to the desired shape, using the cardboard template, then laid it in the console to confirm it fit as needed. I also used clear packing tape to tape up the foam piece just to give it another layer of support.

You’ll need to mark the bottom of the console section so you know where to cut a hole for the USB plug to fit through. I used a drill with a small bit and cut out the 4 corners of the USB hole, then worked my way around until the hole was finished.

You then need to cut down the rubber mat that comes with the console, like I did, or buy a different piece for this. The benefit of buying a different piece is that it would be one complete piece and you can cut it to your desired size. Something like this may work but I didn’t do this. I just used the provided mat. You can see that I used a few pieces to complete this and glued them to the foam board.

This shows what it looks like with the wireless charger fed through the hole, before putting the mat in.

When installed in the car, I plug the wireless charger into the USB outlet that’s in the console. It shuts off after about 5 minutes if you turn the car off. You may want to use a 90-degree adapter. This both adds some degree of protection against accidental downward pressure and can be used as an extension for the USB plug. This way there is less wear-and-tear on the main plug.

The cigarette lighter power is always on, so if you plug anything into it then it could drain your car’s battery. I had a USB adapter plugged in which has a small blue light on it. It never drained my battery enough to notice but it’s worth considering. If you use one, consider getting one that doesn’t have a light. Some have very faint lights and are hard to see.

The wireless charger I chose also has a small red light on the middle of the cable so it too could drain the battery, which is why I usually leave it plugged into the USB plug.

Note that some reviews state that the wireless charger I chose, and link to above, stopped working after a short period of time. I haven’t had any problems yet but you should buy something you’re comfortable with. I liked it because it was rectangular and fit my needs.

I also recommend the wireless Apple CarPlay adapter too, which allows your phone to connect WIRELESSLY to your car’s entertainment unit. I plugged this into the car’s USB port in the console and it’s worked great! I just leave my phone in my pocket for most trips and get full Apple CarPlay functionality. They’ve since released newer versions here.

If you want to see how I created a USB thumb drive with mp3s and music playlists then read this post. I wasn’t able to find any detailed info on how to format the playlists and was able to figure it out.

Additional Useful Products

Dash Cameras

Front & Rear Dash Cam by FitCamX that looks like it originally came with the car.

I installed this myself and it took less than 2 hours.

The version that I installed gets its power from the overhead sunroof power, which means I didn’t need to run power to an area that is hard to get to.

It comes with a power connector cable for attaching to the sunroof power, if you have one. There are other options available too. Buy it here.

Rear Cargo Cover

It’s surprising that Mazda doesn’t offer one of these, either at the time of purchase or as an optional accessory.

• hard cargo cover (option 1, option 2)
• soft/roll-up cargo cover (link)

Also, you can buy a Mazda ‘genuine part’ rear cargo cover here, but it’s more expensive than the above listed options.

Other Items

Center console armrest cover (option 1, option 2)

PledgeMusic has issued a statement about recent news about payment problems:

PledgeMusic has always been committed to serving artist and fan communities. It was established by artists and was born of a need to change the way in which the traditional music industry operated. It was designed to help artists and their teams at every level.

That said, we deeply regret that recently we have not lived up to the high standards to which PledgeMusic has always held itself. We acknowledge that many artists have and continue to experience payment delays. These delays to artists are unacceptable–not only to them but to us.

While the company has made progress, we still haven’t reached our goals. PledgeMusic has been in discussions with several strategic players in the industry who have an interest in the PledgeMusic platform. We are evaluating a number of transactions with those potential partners, and we plan to announce details of this in the next 60 days. It is our expectation that payments will be brought current within the next 90 days.

As of now, we are working through the backlog of correspondence with artists and teams to clarify their payment plans and your patience is appreciated as we complete this task. Furthermore, we are also working to address the fulfillment issues that some of our consumers have experienced in turn, often as a direct result of artist payment issues. Despite the unfortunate circumstances, the passionate inquiries and messages of support on social media from fans are appreciated, acknowledged and understood.

We are deeply sorry that we have not lived up to the high standards to which PledgeMusic always held itself. We are committed as a company of passionate music lovers to get things back on track as quickly as possible.

Sincerely,
PledgeMusicDescription

Update:

PledgeMusic co-founder Benji Rogers has announced he will be returning to the company on a short-term basis.

The first priority for the company is to sort the back payments issue as every penny that is owed to artists needs to get to them in the fastest possible time. A more detailed plan will be shared with the community shortly.

Secondly all funds coming into the company from now on will be managed by an independent third party (to be named soon) so as to ensure that all campaigns that launch going forward, will be paid upon their campaign milestones being reached. The specifics of this will be detailed in the aforementioned forthcoming announcement.

Thirdly I will work with the team to ensure that there is a go forward plan that includes and listens to the incredible community of artists and fans that we created. Once we are through our first two priorities we will work on the third.

Spotify began running a test on a small group of users yesterday, offering the Hi-Fi service for $5 to $10 above the $10 per month price for Spotify Premium. But a source and a few Reddit users who got the prompt and tried to sign up for the Hi-Fi service were either told it wasn’t available in their area at the time or they received an error message.